The restaurant was on the beach and Can took advantage of going in for a swim, or two, or three or…
After a long and quite enjoyable lunch and some ice creme, they reluctantly had to depart. It was a great day!
2014-06-27: Today is Friday and Market Day. The farmer's market (called pazar) is about 1.6 km walk from where we are, and it is near to the Municipality building. As we were not the first, it was easy to find by just watching the people carrying the fruits and veggies, and just go in the direction they came from.
The market is huge as it services not just the smallish town of Candarli, but all of the housing areas built over the years in the surrounding hills for those that chose to want to spend their summers here. There were minibuses that bring in people from the outskirts also, and unknown to us, one that circled town taking locals to and from. Part of the market is devoted to clothes (mostly summer) and there were some "hardware" stands. The rest was devoted to fresh veggies, fruit, nuts, some sweets, cheese and chicken. As a general rule, red meat does not appear to be sold at any of these markets in Turkey, and that was true today.
The news is reporting a large spike in meat prices for the upcoming Ramazan (aka Ramadan) (which starts tomorrow night and lasts for 30 days). It appears that speculators have made a large purchase of meat in the country and then warehoused it, driving up prices. I remember this happening the last two Ramazans and my guess is that the there is nothing that can be done to stop these people doing this.
Anyway, the day was warm (33-35 C in town, a little cooler on the shore) and humid so after getting back to LeeZe, I spent a few minutes under the outside shower cooling off.
2014-06-29: We were to move to another part of the port yesterday morning but the winds were so bad (24-30 knots from the S/SE) that prudence dictated that we stay where we are. Rigged up more tire fenders and had to remove the steps leading to the swim platform as the wind was pushing us down on to the rusty pier and I was concerned that the steps would get ripped off, So, I did take them off, but two bolt heads are now sheared so after the move, I will see if I can get them out. Rigged an additional line to keep the port aft corner of LeeZe from moving too much with the wind blowing so hard. I now have 6 lines working to keep LeeZe off the rocks and in good water. As you can guess, did not sleep too well this night.
Yesterday was also the start of Ramazan. It appears that Turkey is the only country starting Ramazan today. I read that nearly all other Muslim countries are starting it on Sunday due to the presence of the new moon. Anyway, at Sunset, a cannon is fired from the fort in town signifying that one can start the evening meal. Now, I have yet to observe this year the start of the meal (called Iftar) but if it is like anything in previous years, especially in summer where the fast can last ~ 17 hours, the diners are already seated at the table, the first part of the meal in on the table, beverages and drinks are already in the glasses, and everyone is making small talk waiting for the cannon. You can probably picture the scene. These Iftars that "break the fast" can and do last hours, well into the evening, and is not only a time to eat, but also to socialize.
For the record, children, old people and sick people are not required to fast. I have not a clue as to what percentage of the people in Candarli are conforming to this fast but I do know that in other parts of Turkey, (especially those areas away from the coast) nearly 100% of those that should be fasting are.
For those that are not as well fortunate as others, many towns and cities host an Iftar at sunset in a tent (usually) in the center of town. Anyone can come and sit and eat, and if the town is doing this, they will do it every night for the duration of Ramazan.
At the end of Ramazan there is a three-day "Sugar" holiday where you can guess, sweets are purchased and consumed in great numbers. When we had a home in Ankara, Zehra would buy candy and sweets to offer to visitors. The tradition is on the first day many families go and visit relatives and close friends. Drink and these sweets are offered. The visit is not a long one as it could be that you have 6+ families to visit. The second day you may go and visit close friends and others that you could not get to on the first day. The third day is usually just for you to do as you wish.
Zehra went for a walk this afternoon and noted that the beach was crowded, people were eating and drinking beer, and doing all the other normal activities one does on a warm summer Sunday at the shore. So, it appears that the Fast is not widely participated in here.
That is a brief intro into Ramazan.
We are down to ¼ tank of water so we need to load in the next few days. If we do not move, then we will hire another tanker to deliver water (like we did in Cesme) and prepare to depart to go further north.
2014-07-01: We moved yesterday from the rusty pier at the entrance of the port to a berth in front of the clubhouse.
The slip's boat owner is not here for 2-3 days (not really sure how long) so we could use his slip to load water and electricity. The wind was calm and I am my cautious self in getting LeeZe backed into the slip. With lines over, we are in and then had to place the lazy lines on the bow. A Turk wanted to help and at this point, when Turks want to help, it is easier to let them do it, and then fix it, then it is to say no. There were two lazy lines and when he was done with them, neither were tight enough to do their job. But he left, and then I fixed both.
Next was to hook up shore power. Got the cables out and hooked up, and lo and behold, the shore power meter was reading 229 V. Happy as a clam!! Close the shore power breaker and turn on one of two battery chargers and meter is now blank. Lost shore power. Thinking it was something I did wrong, check every point back to the breaker box on shore. All looked fine, but still, no power. I walked into the club house and noticed that the TV was off. (It is ALWAYS on!) Sure enough, the city lost power. Murphy? I sure hope that my little battery charger did not cause the city to black out! ☺
Meanwhile, I had to get the steps leading from the swim platform to the aft deck reinstalled. That means I have to get the two broken bolts out first. Turns out a Captain's brother is a mechanic and he comes over. To make a long story short, (Zehra and I could BARELY understand his Turkish!) he convinced me he had a plan. A short while later, it appears that his plan is not going to work and he needs another plan. He departs (I have no clue why, even though he told us) with one of the two bolts I was able to get out and returns an hour later with a welding machine and other assorted tools. He again presents his new plan, and I nod yes, having little success in completely understanding what he wants to do. He is concerned about damaging my blue paint but I tell him I can repaint.
His plan? He spot welds a new bolt to the bit remaining in the hole and slowly backs out the piece. Does the twice. Makes it look like as easy as a piece of cake. He then cleans up the threaded holes, repairs the minor damage to the steps and reinstalls. Paint damage? See none. Looks just like when the yard installed. But he has some suggestions. Check the bolts tight every couple of months when in use. Replace the bolts every two to three years. Never apply any lubricant to the bolts when installing. And, if you do not need the steps in the winter, take them off and put the bolts back in.
I move on to loading water while the mechanic is working out his various plans. Got a long hose from the port and started to load water into the water tank. Just slightly below ¼ and the water flow is quite low. Took nearly 6 hours to fill the tank.
Meanwhile, while cleaning up (putting lines away, hosing down the dirty decks, cleaning the mud and gunk from the anchor chain and the huge grassy and muddy clump lodged in the anchor itself) hear a commotion on the wall. Turns out, city power has returned and within minutes, LeeZe's both battery chargers are doing what they do best.
(Zehra says I write too much technical stuff, but it is a necessary (evil) part of boating on your own!)
The day is ending and I am dog tired. Shower and clean up, and Zehra, also beat, does not want to cook. So, we get presentable, and take a walk along the bay, checking out restaurants. Come across Mavi Sanat restaurant and decide we will eat there. BIG MISTAKE. The food was nothing special and we were felt overcharged. Should have continued walking further down to Deniz Lokanta where we ate with Vern et al on 26 June. So, if you are in this town and want dinner, I suggest Deniz over Mavi, OK?
(Another suggestion is Pitane Lokantasi in town opposite the Tansas supermarket. (There is also an outlet along the beach front just as good!) We have eaten there at least three times and each time it was superb. I tend to like their "pide" but their chicken and beef is also good. Prices are very reasonable and the quantity of food is good. They do not serve alcohol so have your beer after dinner!)
While there was a crowd of people along the waterfront over the weekend, there was hardly anyone walking Monday evening. It appears that many of the summer visitors do not fast for Ramazan as we saw no evidence of diners assembling at beach front restaurants near to sundown preparing to eat dinner at sunset. But we did note locals waiting for sunset at a smallish restaurant in the center of town so some are fasting.)
Today, continued to clean up (have water so now is a good time to clean!) and in the afternoon, I did some chores in town while Zehra went by minibus to see some land (with an absolutely gorgeous view of a small bay) she bought over 40 years ago. She told me upon her return that it looks the same as it looked 6-7 years ago. The management team has another 10 years to complete the infrastructure for the area (roads, water, etc.) so for the foreseeable future, Zehra will continue to pay.
2014-07-02: After doing some chores in the morning, we decided to go to the beach.
Candarli's beach is one of the BEST we have ever been at in Turkey.
The beach has fine grain sand and once you get past a thin line of small rocks in the water, the bottom is clean and sandy. It is not too deep out to the ropes that mark the area of the authorized swimming area (with life guards!), and it is long, so you do not have to lay your towel in a crowd, unless you want to. What is does not have are chaise lounges that allow one to lie flat and sleep. Every bar / restaurant / pub have these funky chairs that have a long seat, but they are not very comfortable. You can rent an umbrella and these chairs, or, as many do, bring your own. Great Beach!!
After dinner,
we went for a walk and again the road and sidewalk along the beach / bay was alive with people. We sat and I had a Turkish coffee
and Zehra had an ice creme while watching the people walk by. We noticed a new snack being sold. A lady and her daughter were taking a whole potato on a stick, sticking it into some contraption and cutting the potato into one long spiral, then deep frying it.
People (mostly kids) were lined up to buy and were have a fun time eating the potato off the stick. Street sellers also sell corn on the cob cooked in water (BIG sell here!),
cooked corn in a cup, raw almonds chilled on a block of ice,
fried dough balls,
mussels,
baked potatoes,
popcorn,
and of course ice creme.
Along the beach front just before sunset, some simply do not want to go
and after dinner, not only is there ice creme et al available, but also an arts and crafts street where hand made items are for sale,
women's clothes for sale,
and even sea shells.
The bars and music start up just after dinner and seem to quit about 3 AM. We just do not have the energy to be up at that hour so I cannot describe that scene.
2014-07-05: Yesterday, we had to give up our spot at the wall. We asked to stay one more day as the winds from the North were blowing quite hard but it was not meant to be. The owner wanted it back. So after loading up on fruits, veggies, cheese and nuts at the Friday's Farmers Market, we depart the slip. Of course all does not smoothly as we had little help in keeping the lazy lines clear and the prop caught two of them. The owner of the slip was really angry but to free ourselves, two of his lines had to be cut. I was thinking that God works in mysterious ways. ☺
We go anchor in some 7 meters of water some 200 meters off the beach, and prepare for the stronger winds. They fail to disappoint (shucks!) and I has a very restless night. (Zehra thinks I worry way to much but in 2011, with strong winds blowing at Eski Foca, the anchor did drag at 0315 and just by the grace of God was I up and able to recover! So, I believe I have reason to worry, at least for the the first night!)
Today, the winds are still blowing just not as bad as last night. We will wait for them to die down (expect that to be tomorrow) before launching the tender off the boat deck
2014-07-09: We were to leave yesterday morning for Bademli but due to some late chores in town, we decided to leave today. But after the chores, we did go back to the beach to lounge / relax.
The bay feels cold when one goes in but it is also quite refreshing. After the beach, we decided to eat on the beach before returning to LeeZe.
We found another GREAT restaurant called Saklibache. It is on the bay front, near to the Arts and Craft's street. Great food, reasonable prices, and again, quite a find.
We departed this morning to Bademli. On the way, we pass EYKO, a bit of land that Zehra purchased some 40 years ago with the idea that it would be developed into a summer home area. (She came here a few days ago by minibus.) First time we are seeing it from the sea and she is happily taking pictures. We loiter among the coves that make up the area and then when done, we resume our transit to Bademli.
Bademli is a group is a group of islands that offer a very well protected anchorage from nearly all weather, is quite a relaxing place and peaceful. But getting in means navigating thru some waters where the chart says it is only 3 meters deep.
But we manage, and we anchor off of a hotel that is on one of the islands.
http://www.olivieraresort.com/eng/index.html
We come to learn this hotel is quite quite pricy, but it looks quite beautiful. So, we anchor, take a tour of the area in the tender, (near run aground trying to approach a small fishing port) and then return.
Just south of our anchorage is what appears to be another very elegant hotel with funicular that was never quite finished. Have not yet learned why but from what is there, it was to be a very elegant hotel.
That concludes this blog entry. Of course, comments and questions are warmly welcomed.
Thanks for taking the time
Lee and Zehra Aboard MV LeeZe
Bademli, Turkey
Please let Zehra that a good part of your fan club very much appreciates all your technical details. They are well written and informative. ( Also, the photos of street scenes are great! ) Thanks for taking the time to describe you cruising.
ReplyDeleteJonathan Haas